EXCURSIONS

Bird Island (½ day). From our dock in Boca del Drago, we travel by boat northward for 15-20 min. to reach Bird Island. This small island lies a short distance off the northeast coast of Isla Colon, and is home to a pelagic seabird breeding colony. One of the most photographed locations in Panama, Bird Island (also known as Swan’s Cay) looks like Jules Vern’s concept of Mysterious Island. Limestone cliffs rise abruptly from the sea and are topped with coconut palms, fig trees, philodendrons and other luxuriant tropical vegetation. This important site is the only known location where Red-billed Tropicbirds nest in the entire southwestern Caribbean! In the past the island had been regularly raided for tropicbird feathers and eggs, as well as Brown Booby eggs, but is now a national preserve. While we are not allowed to step foot on the island, we may circle it in our boat and can view, close-hand, the tropicbirds, boobies and other species that nest here. Snorkeling and swimming are permitted and we can stand in the shallow water of the protected lee-side of the island when seas are calm. Occasionally, whale sharks have sighted at the island. Lectures on pelagic seabird ecology and behavior will be provided.

Soropta Peninsula (½ day) The Soropta Peninsula lies directly across the Boca del Drago inlet and only 5 minutes from the field station by boat. But in terms of its fauna and flora, the Soropta is very different from Isla Colon. The Soropta is part of the mainland, and as such, offers additional birding and naturalizing opportunities. Parrots, toucans, trogons and hummingbirds abound and 15 species of raptors have been identified here. Howler monkeys and white-faced capuchins are encountered during most trips to the peninsula. Spider monkeys are occasionally observed as well. This is not a location for the timid. Eyelash vipers are abundant here but with our guidance, are very easily observed and photographed safely. In 2002, National Geographic Magazine filmed a show called “Snake Wranglers” which featured ITEC researchers and the eyelash vipers of the Soropta Peninsula (Series 2, Episode 3, 2003). Agouties, pacas and collard peccaries also occur here but are difficult to observe. The Soropta excursion begins with a hike across the peninsula though secondary and primary lowland rain forests to the north shore. Along the way we pass a large Montezuma’s Oropendola nesting colony and discuss their symbiotic relationships. We then stop near the north shore and collect fruit from the jagua tree (Genipa americana) which are used by Amerindians to make temporary tattoos. On the north side we encounter mangroves and typical beach-side vegetation. We travel back to the dock by hiking the beach completely around the northeast end of the peninsula. Along the beach we will encounter an inordinately large population of hermit crabs and pass through (perhaps wade through) a hardwood swamp forest. Lectures on peninsular ecology, snakes, and bird diversity.

Banana River (½ day). The Banana River represents the finest natural mangrove and swamp forest river in the Bocas del Toro Archipelago. Named for the banana shipments that United Fruit Company used to transport from their plantations near Changuinola during the 1800s, the Banana River is now a pristine watercourse lying within the Pond Sak National Preserve. This river is also the largest stream that empties into Almirante Bay. We travel by boat south to the mainland and slowly travel up the river. At its mouth, the Banana River is bounded by large red mangroves which become larger the further upstream we go. Some grow to 50 feet in height. Eventually, their crowns coalesce into a continuous ceiling over the channel that can only be described as cathedral-like. Along the way we encounter a myriad of bird species including ringed kingfishers, black-crowned night herons, snowy egrets and a variety of other wading birds. Howler and white-faced capuchins are always possibilities along the river. As we travel to the upper reaches of the river, mangroves give way to majestic swamp forest hardwoods draped with epiphytes. The water becomes clear but brown due to the heavy tannin loads. Here we get out into the stream to pull our boat as far upstream as we can, passing gigantic trees along the way. Lectures on swamp ecosystems, epiphyte ecology and carbonate geology will be provided.

Mimbitimbi Caves (1/2-3/4 day). Due to its karst topography, Isla Colón is riddled with limestone caves. The Mimbitimbi caves are the most extensive and least visited due to their isolation on the northeast side of the island. At least 10 separate caves are present here (more are discovered on each trip) and are among the largest known in the region. Most of the caves have the Mimbitimbi River (really a medium-size creek, but the largest freshwater stream on the island) or tributaries flowing through them. In places, the stream is large enough to dive into while inside the caves. The excursion begins with a 1-hr. hike from the Bocas road through a large teak plantation. Along the way we examine artifacts left by the Bugaba people, 1500 years ago. These include large basalt grinding stones weighing several hundred pounds each. There is no basalt on Isla Colon which means these stones had to be brought in from the Changuinola River 15 miles away; the nearest place basalt occurs.
Being composed of limestone (prehistoric coral reefs, Pliocene in age), the caves have many fascinating formations. Stalactites, stalagmites and columns are abundant in all of the caves as well as many other fascinating of formations. A variety of caverniculous animals reside in these caves including 10 species of bats, giant spiny rats, amblypygids (harmless spider-like arthropod), crabs, fish, and occasionally, boa constrictors hoping to dine on bats. There is also a small waterfall at the entrance to one of the caves. The caves all vary in size and length from a few meters to perhaps a 100 m. We will pack a lunch and eat at the waterfall. From the cave we will walk the Mimbitimbi River downstream to the sea, and walk back via the Mimbitimbi Road. Birding is great along this road and we usually encounter monkeys and sloths along the way. Lectures will be provided on pre-Columbian cultures, teak plantations and cave ecology.

Soropta Canal (½ day) The Soropta Canal was excavated by United Fruit Company in the late 1800s to provide a route for transporting bananas by dugout canoe to Boca del Drago were they were loaded onto large ships heading for the United States. The canal is about 14 miles in length and now mainly functions as a passage between the Changuinola River and Boca del Drago. About two thirds of the route is man-made, the other third form natural intra-coastal and river channels. One side of the channel is bordered by pastures and beaches while the other side runs its entire length along the San San -Pondsak National Preserve. This side is grown with massive Raphia palms which possess the longest leaf of any known plant (to 40 feet!). At times, the watercourse is in places choked with water hyacinth and other aquatic plants, making it one of the best places to observe a large variety of animals. Some of the common species include, ringed and green kingfishers, keel-billed toucans, anhingas, northern jacanas, parrots, and raptors. In the Fall and Spring, large “kettles” of migrating raptors may be viewed from the canal and the Changuinola River that feeds it. An evening trip will usually encounter kinkajous, crab-eating raccoons, spectacled caimen and other denizens of the night.

Dolphin Bay (½ day) Dolphin Bay is a quiet embayment located on the south side of Isla Cristobal. The clear, shallow water is a perfect feeding ground for bottle-nosed dolphins which arrive here to give birth. As many as 40 dolphins can be viewed at the same time rising above the water in this bay. Depending on the pattern of movement, it is possible to determine whether the dolphins are feeding, traveling, or playing. They are very curious about the boats moving through the bay and sometimes come right along side our launch. Traveling from our dock in Bocas del Toro, we travel about 45 min. south to Dolphin Bay, passing among many small mangrove islands and over coral reefs. After taking a refreshment break at a local restaurant over the water, we return to the field station or to another location. Lectures will be provided on dolphin ecology and conservation.

 

Hospital Point (½ day). Located just across the inlet from Bocas del Toro, Hospital Point represents one of important historic places in the archipelago. During the late 1800s the United Fruit Company was based in town of Bocas having recently moved from Boca del Drago. But unlike Drago, a natural high area on the island, the location chosen for the city was a mangrove forest. Once the mangroves were cleared, buildings and home were built over the swamp and were connected by raised wooden walkways. Eventually a population of 25,000 souls inhabited Bocas del Toro. Malaria, yellow fever and diphtheria were rampant in those days which is why they chose the isolated northern point of Isla Solarte to build their hospital. The hospital operated for about 30 years until United Fruit decided to move its headquarters to the mainland. Most visitors now go to Hospital Point for the diving experience. Limestone walls descend into the sea, corals and a myriad of fishes are always present here. The island itself is unique as well and home to red-capped manakins and a pure orange race of strawberry poison dart frogs. Due to the extensive population residing on this end of the island during the late 1800s and early 1900s, period artifacts are frequently found in the waters surrounding Hospital Point. Lectures on Bocas history, marine biology and poison-dart frog evolution will be provided.

Zapatilla Keys and Crawl Key (full day). Recognizing the importance of the extensive coral reefs encircling these coral atolls, the Panamanian government preserved this area as Bastimentos National Marine Park. The reefs here are spectacular with gigantic brain coral heads and walls of elkhorn coral. The diversity here is stunning and due to its location away from the mainland, typically has excellent diving conditions. The islands themselves look like something straight out of Gilligan’s Island, two small foot-shaped coconut islands fringed in white sand beaches, surrounded by emerald coral reefs. We will depart the station in our boat and travel up the bay side of Isla Colon. On the way to the Zapatillas we stop by Crawl Key and make arrangements for lunch. Crawl Key is historically important as a location where sea turtles were kept in “crawls” during the early part of the 20th century. Today, a restaurant over the water exists at this location. After making our reservation, we head straight out to the islands for snorkeling, diving and beach combing. From March through September it is possible to encounter sea turtle nests on these beaches. Both leatherbacks and hawksbills nest here as they do on all area beaches. After lunch, we will visit the Indian village at Sal Creek on Isla Bastimentos. Lectures on sea turtle fishery and indigenous cultures will be provided.

Sea Turtle Nesting on Soropta Beach (6-8 hrs). From the mouth of the Changuinola River south for five kilometers lies a stretch of Soropta Beach that represents one of the more important leatherback sea turtle nesting sites in the region. ITEC has operated a sea turtle conservation program here since 1997 working with three species of sea turtles, leatherbacks, hawksbills and the occasional green turtle. Leatherbacks are the most abundant species here and nest from March to June, with peak activity in April and May. Hawksbills nest from May through October. There are several different activities involved with in the program. Daytime activities include walking beaches to record the nest locations along the beach, type of nesting habitat and the species of turtle involved. Nighttime activities focus on walking beaches and searching for nesting sea turtles. When found, turtles are tagged and measured.
Prior to going to the beach a lecture will be provided on sea turtle nesting biology and conservation. We will depart our dock around 5:00 pm and travel up the Soropta Canal, viewing wildlife along the canal as we go and will reach the Soropta Field Station at around 7:30 pm. Here we will receive a talk by the station director about the sort of work we will do when we hit the beach. We head out about 9:00 pm with groups going north and south of the field station. We wear dark clothes and carry flashlights with red filters so as not to frighten the turtles. When a turtle is encountered we will take measurements of her and check her flippers for tags. If no tags are present, monel tags will be placed on both rear flippers. The number of eggs she deposits will be counted and a random selection of 10 eggs will be measured. If the nest is deemed in danger of being washed out via erosion or poached, the clutch will be moved to another location or to the sea turtle nursery located at the turtle station.
On the way back to the field station, we will use our searchlight to look for nocturnal wildlife along the canal. Caimen are common denizens of the canal at night as are night herons, crab-eating raccoons and kinkajous. We will return to the station around 2:00 am.

Indigenous Villages. (5 hours to full day). When Columbus sailed into these waters in 1502 there were over 300 native ethnic groups living in Panama. Sadly, only seven or eight exist today (depending on whom you consult). Our area in the Bocas del Toro Archipelago is home to a group commonly known as “Guaymi”, but more specifically, Ngöbe. The Ngöbe generally live a subsistence life style primarily as farmers and fishermen. They are very visible along the road to Drago, in their dugouts, called “cayucas” out in the bay, and in town. They speak their own language and have a number of fascinating cultural identities such as filing their teeth into sharp points. The Ngöbe are best known for making a hand-woven bag called a “chacara”. The fibers for these bags come from a large, terrestrial bromeliad called a “pita” and the dyes are traditionally all natural. There are several villages on Isla Colon including one in Boca del Drago. Many Ngöbe work with us at the field station. There are several villages that can be visited in the area such as Cristobal on the island of Cristobal, and Sal Creek on the island of Bastimentos. These villages consist of loosely arranged houses made of both traditional and more modern materials. Traditional Ngöbe houses are raised off the ground on posts, have palm board sides, and thatched roofs. As the region modernizes, these homes are giving way to those built with sawed lumber and tin roofs. Visits to these villages can be done separately or in conjunction with other activities. An excursion to Dolfin Bay can include a visit to the village of Cristobal. Similarly, a trip to Zapatilla Cay can include a stop at Sal Creek. Lectures will be provided on Panama’s rich indigenous heritage.

The Naso (2-3 days).* Another indigenous group, the Naso, reside far inland from the city of Changuinola on the Rio Teribe. To see the Naso, we travel by boat from the station to Changuinola via the Soropta Canal and Changuinola River. From town we travel by taxi to the boat landing for our trip up the Changuinola via motorized dugout. After traveling upstream for an hour or so we veer to the left and head up the Rio Teribe to the Naso village. We will reside at the village’s lodge while we visit with the Naso. The Naso are best known for their use of many ethnobotanicals. Ethnobotanicals are plants that are employed by indigenous groups for a variety of uses such as dyes, building materials, foods and medicines. We will visit some of the households and discuss plant uses and general ethnography. We will also make forays into the forest to see where these materials come from and how they are harvested. The Naso are known primarily for their wood carvings which they sell in Bocas and elsewhere. Lectures on Naso culture and ethnobotany will be provided.
One other indigenous group represented in Bocas del Toro, is the Kuna. The Kuna are a colorfully-dressed group primarily from the San Blas Islands in Southwestern Caribbean of Panama and Colombia. They are of very short stature. The women wear colorful blouses, skirts and scarves as well as bands of beads, called “winis” (pronounced “wee nees”) on their lower arms and legs. They have come to Bocas primarily to sell their “molas”, a colorful reverse-applique tapestry that Kuna women wear on their blouses. You will see Kuna in the town of Bocas del Toro and at the field station restaurant.
* This extended trip is not included in the basic fee schedule. Please contact ECOTEC for details and costs.

 

 

Pre-Columbian Archaeology (1 hr to several days) represents one of the most fascinating activities going on at the field station. In 2002 a pre-Columbian site was discovered in Boca del Drago and has now become the most important archaeological site in the Province of Bocas del Toro. Dr. Thomas Wake of the Cotsen Institute of Archaeology, UCLA, is the director of this project. Beginning around 500 AD there were indigenous societies residing in these islands. Finding a paradise rich in natural resources, these people quickly colonized much of the island where they grew crops of maiz (corn) and yuca, hunted in the forests, and fished the shallow coral reefs. Judging by the shear number of artifacts left behind, their populations grew rapidly and may have lead to their demise as they over-consumed natural resources. Midden artifacts from Drago, such as the bones of fish, reptiles, birds, mammals, and shellfish, indicate that animals were larger and more diverse at the older, lowest levels than in the more recent levels near the top. By the time Columbus sailed through Boca del Drago in 1502, there were very few Amerindians to meet him. By the time that American and English began to settle the region in the early 1800, there were none at all.
Thousands of artifacts have been found here. Ceramics are the most common and it is literally impossible to dig anywhere in Drago without discovering pottery sherds. Very large vessels measuring 3 feet in diameter with sides nearly 2 inches thick, were probably used for food storage, but they were also used as burial vessels. Other ceramics include a myriad of types including sculptured and polychromatic tripod ceremonial jars, the first recorded for the province. One of the unique aspects of the pottery in Drago is the shear number of ceramic sculptures that have been uncovered, such as jaguars, monkeys, crabs, dolphins, bats, armadillos and people. Lithics (rock artifacts) are also abundant and include polished axe heads (celts), arrow and spear heads, knives, sculptured matates (grain grinding tables), and others yet to be determined. Human remains have also been discovered here and it is estimated by Dr. Wake, that about 300 people inhabited Boca del Drago 1000 years ago. Interestingly, the first non-indigenous settlement in the islands was in Boca del Drago. Drago became a prosperous town but eventually most moved to the newly settled town of Bocas del Toro on the opposite end of the island. The occupation of the area historically adds yet another archaeological dimension as historical artifacts are found superimposed on the pre-Columbian.
The archaeological dig occurs at specific times during the year, primarily in July and August. Visitors at the station during this period are welcome to observe the dig and help in the cleaning and cataloging of artifacts. For those who are primarily interested in archaeology and wish to join the dig in a significant way, please contact ITEC educational programs.

Starfish Beach and Mangroves (½ day). Mangrove forests are common in the archipelago especially on the leeward side of the islands. There are four mangrove species in the islands, red, black, white and buttonwood.
Mangroves are very important to the nutrient cycles and energy flow on coral reefs as derived from the decomposition of mangrove leaves. In our area, some coral reefs are found among the mangroves. Mangrove roots serve as nurseries for many fish species. Mangrove roots are literally encrusted with all sorts of marine invertebrates, such as sponges, sea squirts, oysters, hydrozoans, and the occasional seahorse. There are four species of mangroves in the Bocas archipelago. Red mangroves are the first to be encountered seaward and are distinguished by their branching prop roots. Black and white mangrove follow, forming bands as one travels inland. The rarer buttonwood represents the fourth species.
We begin our mangrove exploration with a walk (or Kayak) to Starfish Beach, so named for the large number of cushion stars that accumulate in the quite waters here. On the way we pass all of the species of mangrove and will discuss them all in turn. After spending some time on starfish beach we board a boats and take a first hand look at the mangroves from the inside out. That is, we travel up a small creek where we are completely enclosed by mangroves. We will see animals that are unique (endemic) to mangroves, such as mangrove crabs, mangrove snails, and mangrove oysters, among others. Finally, we will stop at a shallow coral reef where you can see how the coral merges with the mangroves and spend time snorkeling among the mangrove roots. Lectures on Mangrove and marine ecology will be provided.

Sea Kayak Excursion (½ day). Sea kayaks are one of the best ways to view the mangrove islands, creeks and backwaters in the archipelago. Traveling from Drago, we will skirt the coastline alongside Starfish Beach and then enter “Small Bight”, an embayment of small mangrove islands and channels on the bay side of the island. Here we glide over shallow coral reefs and seagrass. The clear water allows us to view the myriad of sea creatures on the reef and sandy bottom. From here we will enter Ground Creek where the red mangroves grow overhead to form a tunnel through which we silently glide. Mangrove creatures are here in abundance and we get up close and personal with them. We will continue up the creek until mangroves give way to solid land and rainforests. Sloths are commonly seen along this route as are the occasional white-faced capuchin troop and a variety of wading birds. We will pass some Ngöbe houses along the way and probably kids in dugouts, called “cayucas”, on their way to fish in the bay. We travel from here back to the bight and into a larger, more open channel and ultimate back to the field station.

Morning Monkey Walk. 2-3 hours. This hike begins at the station at 5:15 am. We walk to the edge of the forest where we wait in the cool mist for the morning chorus of mantled howler monkeys. Around 5:30 am just as the light creeps up on us, the forest comes alive. Gray-necked wood rails begin their bizarre synchronous call and then other forest species chime in. Suddenly, a low growling begins and evolves into a booming roar as the howlers wake up. For the uninitiated, this can be quite a startling sound. We move quickly now to locate the monkeys while they are still calling. Entering the swamp forest, we follow our grid system of trails until we are standing directly beneath them. The monkeys ignore us and if we are lucky, continuing calling for a time. Howlers are gregarious foliovores that move slowly about in groups 5-20. Due to the low canopy height, binoculars are almost superfluous. We continue along the trails and search for other howler groups, white-faced capuchins, anteaters and birds. By 8:00 am, we return to the station for breakfast. Lectures will be provided on primate ecology and conservation.